It was 2017, I got invited by a group of Surfers to paddle out at Lunada Bay, California where it was known for acts of Racism and hatred in addition to extreme localism. That's me with the Grey Wetsuit on about to Climb down that Mountain..
If you can see behind me, it's a long hike to get down, so Christopher Taloa volunteered to take our Surfboards down for us. Oh my God, when I tell you that was the most challenging steep path I have ever taken and don't plan on taking again, whew chile!!!
I was not only shook but as you see it was just Maki a Japanese American and I who showed up even though we were asked by other Surfers to meet up with them there.
Believe me I wanted to turn around but what you didn't see is about 25 News Trucks behind us all with their Cameras out like it was the Red Carpet at the Grammy Awards as well as 30 Cop Cars on standby. I had already put on my wetsuit down the Block in my car with softtop in hand. They all looked at me when I rolled up so I felt the pressure to not back out.
Had I seen that I had to take this treacherous down climb to paddle out to where you see that white wash in the wave because we had to paddle out of the Cove to get to where it was breaking and found out it was 7ft peelers (Great for someone who loves overhead rights) I would have just taken video like everyone else.
Listen it's 4 years later and I still don't do 6-7ft overhead Waves and I have no shame in knowing what my limits are especially since I didn't start surfing until I was in my mid 40's but all that's to say is... Every Battle, every Fight is not ours. I had vertigo nightmares, falling down that Mountain for 2 weeks after that.
We all have work to do to uplift the vibration of the Planet so if you're moved to do something that may seem small to others, more power to you... Personally, Boycotting and taking action against establishments that support Systemic Oppression is more of my focus now. Just be mindful of what's really worth your time to the progression/evolution of society towards diversity and your mental health cause this one wasn't mine.
Now I still go to look at the view from the top of the Hill like everyone else, taking my Selfies and keep it movin but this will be forever one of my most unforgettable and regrettable fights for racism I have ever decided to have..
Anyway here's the Article if you'd like to read it, lol